Reopened Wine Bar Offers Cozy, Sophisticated Setting

, housed in an angular, unmistakable building on Redmond Way, experienced a brief hiatus last year and reopened on New Year's Eve under new ownership.

The cozy, sophisticated space remains a welcome option for those looking for a full meal or just a glass of wine. The dinner menu is populated with American dining standbys with some pleasant surprises sprinkled throughout.

An 8 p.m. dinner reservation on a Saturday night found the restaurant mostly empty, although diners steadily trickled in during the night. A standard of friendly, unobtrusive service was established immediately upon entering and continued throughout the meal. Quiet jazz music fostered a relaxed ambiance.

The appetizer menu includes expected fare like hummus and pita ($7), bruschetta ($7) and Brie with water crackers ($12). Standing out is the Isles of Man ($8), a single Portobello mushroom cap stuffed with Gruyere cheese, shrimp, dill and sour cream. The creamy cheese dominated the flavor palette, with the distinct firmness of the mushroom offering a clean finish. Slightly oily, the appetizer is nonetheless appealing and fairly hearty.

A modest, but well-curated wine list includes a number of West Coast reds and whites, with single glasses and full bottles available for most selections. A 2006 Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Winter’s Hill Vineyard ($11 glass) was recommended by the chef to pair with dinner. The light, acidic flavor was buoyant and refreshing.

The dinner menu features a small selection of classic entrées such as a chicken breast with rice pilaf ($19), a 12-ounce ribeye steak ($26) and blackened salmon ($20). A selection of sweet and savory crepes serves as a less traditional dinner alternative.

From the entrée menu, the unstuffed pork ($20) features two pork medallions, topped with dried apricots and cranberries and port reduction. Rosemary mashed potatoes and a fresh vegetable mix appear on the side. The sweetness of the fruit and port combination contrasted nicely with the pork’s saltiness, although the meat itself was chewier than ideal.

More impressive was the shepherd’s pie ($15), billed on the menu as “A Jerzy’s Classic,” and filled with hearty beef tenderloin and mixed vegetables under a layer of cheesy mashed potatoes. The dish offers little deviation from a traditional recipe, but is perfectly executed.

Dinner entrées are served with a side order of slightly crusty beer bread (also available separately for $2) and a house salad, which features a fresh spring mix accompanied by tomato, onion, cucumber and three cheeses.

From the crepe menu, the savory Bride’s Choice ($12) comes stuffed with baby spinach, Brie and shaved ham and topped with a thick Béchamel sauce. Rich and satisfying, the dish could easily serve as a full entrée for most diners.

The restaurant lacks an extensive dessert menu, with only three items present (one rotates depending on the day), but the berry crumble ($5) is a solid choice, offering mixed berries and apples under a crumbly crust and vanilla ice cream. It was quickly demolished at our table.

Jerzy’s Wine Bar offers a laid-back atmosphere with a well-rounded but somewhat small menu. It’s an ideal spot for late-night dining, but the restaurant also offers breakfast on Saturday and Sunday mornings and lunch seven days a week, where a selection of sandwiches is also available.

Happy hour with $5 appetizers is featured at 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. every day and from 9 p.m. to close Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

The restaurant is open 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday and 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.